Tag: Trees

How to Grow Kiwi Fruit

Kiwis have become a staple in the produce department at grocery stores and now they are becoming more commonplace in the backyard as well. The lovely perennial vines create a unique cover for trellises and arbors. And kiwi fruits are good for you. They are packed with vitamin C, potassium, vitamin E, high fiber, and are low fat.

Semi-Tropical, Hardy and Super-Hardy Kiwis

It may surprise you to know that kiwis will thrive in just about any climate that experiences at least a month of below 45 degree F temperatures in winter. The vines need a period of cold to set fruit.

The kiwis available at the grocery store, Actinidia deliciosa, are native to China. They are semi-tropical and are best suited for zones 7 through 9. Look for these varieties: ‘Blake’, ‘Elmwood’, and ‘Hayward’.

Hardy kiwis, Actinidia arguta, and super-hardy kiwis, Actinidia kolomikta, have smooth, edible skin and smaller fruits. They are very prolific and the flavor of the fruit is sweet. Grow A. arguta in zones 4 through 7 and A. kolomikta is cold tolerant to zone 3. ‘Anna’ and ‘Dumbarton Oaks’ are two common A. arguta varieties. ‘Arctic Beauty’ is A. kolomikta.

Cultural Requirements for Kiwis

Plant your kiwi vines in well-drained soil with a pH between 5.0 & 6.5. They will produce fruit in partial sun. The hardy & super-hardy types are particularly shade tolerant. It’s important that they are in a location that is shielded from glaring winter sunlight and away from cold spring air pockets that might damage the early blooming flowers.

Kiwis are Dioecious

Plant a male kiwi vine within 35 to 50 feet of a female kiwi vine for proper pollination. A single male plant can pollinate several female plants. Hand pollination is an option for a small number of plants. Just pick a male flower and rub it on a female flower.

Feeding Kiwis

Kiwis roots are sensitive to fertilizer so always use a slow release fertilizer when feeding. Apply an all-purpose, slow release fertilizer at planting time. After the first year feed in early spring before the leaf buds break and again in summer after the flowers fade. Kiwis are excellent candidates for organic gardens because they respond well to options such as cow manure.

Staking Kiwi Vines

The kiwi is a vine that needs staking. This helps support the fruits, allows sunlight to reach the leaves and keeps the vines off the ground. You can train them to a guide wire and stake system similar to grapes or any vertical structure such as a fence or trellis.

Pruning Kiwi Vines

It’s important to prune kiwi vines to keep the shape tidy and for fruit production. Fruits are borne on the current season’s growth that emerges from the previous season’s canes. During the first year work on developing a central trunk that is trained to the support. Thereafter prune during the dormant season. Remove dead and diseased wood and stems that fruited during the previous year. Shape up male kiwis after they flower in summer.

Harvesting Kiwi Fruits

Growing kiwis is a time investment. It may take 2 to 5 years to see a plentiful harvest. Look for the fruits to begin to ripen in early fall. Semi-tropical kiwis are ready to pick when the skins turn brown, but the fruit is still firm. You can further test for ripeness by slicing into one of the fruits. If the seeds are black, go ahead and harvest the rest. Give them about a week at room temperature to soften before eating. Hardy and semi-hardy kiwis will drop from the vine when ready. To keep kiwis longer, put them in the refrigerator while they are still hard. They will stay fresh for 5 weeks to several months.

Fringe Tree

I was watching your show recently and you were talking about a tree that has blooms that look almost like lace. Could you tell me the name of that tree?

The tree mentioned in that report was a fringe tree, Chionanthus virginicus. Also known as Grancy Graybeard and Old Man’s Beard. These trees are native from Pennsylvania to Florida and Texas. Fringe trees thrive in full sun and will tolerate partial shade. They prefer acidic, well-drained soil. This tree is hardy from zone 5 to 9.

Many people have asked me for a source for this tree. While I cannot recommend any specific nursery I can say that you should be able to find it at your local garden center.


I would love to grow a dogwood tree. I have now failed 3 times. What is the secret to growing these trees?

The dogwood is one of the most popular and beautiful trees in the country. Even though it doesn’t grow in every part of the country, it’s still one of the most recognizable native trees.

The only problem with it is that many of these trees are killed every year because they’re not planted properly. One of the best ways to learn how to plant a dogwood and get it to survive is to look at how it grows naturally.

The flowering dogwood is indigenous to woodlands, so it likes a little shade and it also prefers acidic and well-drained soils. Dogwoods are very shallow rooted, so when planting them, you should make sure you don’t plant them too deep. Since their native environment is the woodland, they’ll do much better in a shaded flowerbed rather than planting them in the lawn.

If you’ve had difficulty growing the native American dogwood, you might try growing its tougher cousin the Chinese dogwood. The flowers bloom later, after the tree has already leafed out. And the petals on the blooms are pointed, and it has an interesting fruit that looks like a raspberry.

In addition to white, the native American dogwood also comes in various shades of pink, ranging from the palest pink to red. And for those who can’t decide between pink and white there are trees grafted with both colors. If you’re interested in buying a grafted dogwood, you need to know that they don’t occur naturally, and you should look for the graft scar at the base of the tree.

Now, no matter what kind of tree you choose, if you know where it comes from and how it grows naturally, it stands the best chance of finding a happy home in your garden.

Pruning Crape Myrtles

I found your link on crape myrtles very helpful, but I am interested in doing some major pruning. The only problem is that I have searched all over the Internet and cannot find any information on what time of the year is the best time to prune. Any suggestions?

Crape myrtles bloom on new wood, which is growth produced during the current year. I prune mine in late winter or very early spring while the plant is still dormant. By pruning at this time I ensure maximum new growth for bloom and prevent clipping off the buds, which set about May.

There is quite a controversy over how to prune crape myrtles. It has been customary for many people to pollard their crape myrtles. Pollarding is the practice of lopping off the tops of a tree to the desired height. This causes the plant to flush with new growth. While this might be of use if you want all your crape myrtles to be of equal height, I find it a bit harsh looking particularly in winter when the stumps are bare. I prefer to prune my crape myrtles in a more natural fashion.

I begin by removing weak branches and spindly trunks. I also remove any interior trunks that are creating congestion and preventing airflow. If necessary I remove lower limbs to create more height or open up a view. Then I lightly prune the top to remove dead blooms or excessive growth. During the summer it is sometimes necessary to remove suckers, and shoots of new growth, that emerge from around the base of the tree. I also remove spent flowers to encourage more bloom.


I saw the crabapple tree on television last weekend. I was wondering how tall this tree grows. Also, I want to make sure that I understand correctly that it only produces small berry like fruit and not the messy crabapples that fall on the ground. I enjoy your newsletter and read them every time.

I am grateful to a nurseryman friend of mine who recommended this variety of crabapple to me called ‘Narragansett’. He described the tree with such enthusiasm I knew there could be no way for it to live up to such a high recommendation. But I would have to say that it has even surpassed his descriptions.

When the flower buds begin to swell, they are carmine red and once fully open the flower is almost pure white. So at any given time you get this beautiful combination of bud and flower in billowing drifts of petals. When they fall, the ground looks like it is covered with snow. The flowers are followed by dark green glossy leaves that show impressive disease resistance all summer long.

In the fall when the leaves turn golden yellow, they make a beautiful contrast to the apricot or reds of the tiny little apples.

Crabapples are distinguished from ordinary apples only by the size of their fruit. Any apple tree producing apples less than 2 inches in diameter is considered a crabapple. ‘Narragansett’ holds its 1/2 inch fruit through the fall and into the winter, making it less messy than other crabapples and a great source of food for the birds.

You can expect the ‘Narragansett’ crabapple to grow 15 feet tall and 10 to 15 feet wide.

‘Narragansett’ thrives in zones 5 through 8. Plant these crabapples in full sun for best bloom production.

How to Grow Cherry Trees

Every fruit has its peak season, but there are a few, such as cherries, that are truly only good for a month or two each year. A juicy red cherry is a treasure that we gardeners can spend a whole afternoon fantasizing about growing but most of us have to limit ourselves to the daydream. Disease, poor pollination and birds are just a few of the obstacles that stand in the way of a good harvest.

If you considered planting a cherry tree but thought better of it because of the aforementioned drawbacks I suggest you give the idea a second look. Unlike the varieties of yore, modern cherries boast disease resistance, heat and humidity tolerance, compact form and self-pollination. All of these characteristics make successfully growing a cherry tree a realistic venture.

There are actually two types of cherries – sweet (Prunus avium) and tart or sour (Prunus cerasus). Sweet cherries are the type that you will find in the grocery store that you can eat fresh. P. cerasus bears firm, sour cherries that are used for cooking, baking and preserving. Sweet cherries are best suited for areas where temperatures are mild and humidity is low while tart cherries will grow in cooler climates and need about 2 months of winter temperatures below 45° F. Washington, Oregon and California produce more than 97 percent of the sweet cherries in the U.S. and the top tart cherry producing state is Michigan. That should give you some indication of their climate preferences.

Of the two sweet cherries are the more difficult to grow, but if you are willing to commit to some hand holding there are modern varieties that are easier than old-fashioned types like ‘Bing’. Tart cherries are more disease resistant, cold tolerant, accepting of poor soil and reliably self-fertile.

Both types of cherry trees need similar care. Plant them in a spot with full sun, good air circulation and well-drained soil. Self-fertile cherries will produce fruit without another variety present for cross-pollination. If you select a variety that’s not self-fertile check the tag for a list of cultivars you can plant together for the best pollination. Standard cherries that grow large should be planted 35 to 40 feet apart. You can space dwarf trees 8 to 10 feet apart.

Once you plant your tree keep it consistently watered, but not soaked, for the first year. Deep soak established trees when the top few inches of the soil is dry. A layer of mulch will go a long way toward keeping the soil around the roots moist and cool. And don’t forget to give your cherries and all your trees and shrubs extra moisture going into winter, especially after a dry fall.

When it comes to fertilizer, feed the soil rather than the tree. If the tree appears happy an application of compost in early spring will be sufficient. If you think the tree needs more of a boast do a soil test first to determine what type and how much nutrient should be added. If the growth rate seemed slow the previous year an application of nitrogen may be called for. Apply it at a rate of 1/8 of a pound per inch of the diameter of the trunk. Fruit bearing sweet cherries will grow about 10 to 15 inches every year; sour cherries grow at a rate of 8 to 10 inches every year.

Pruning cherry trees is important for tree strength and fruit production. This task should be done every year. How and when you prune depends on the type of cherry, variety and your climate. For instance, the dwarf sweet cherry ‘Compact Stella’ growing in an arid climate can be pruned in late winter while the same tree growing in a humid region would be better served with a late spring pruning after the blooms fade. My best advice is to research the variety you select and check with your cooperative extension about timing. Oh, and don’t over think the task. You’ll be surprised how easy it is once you are armed with the right information.

My final thought on growing cherries is about birds. They love these treasured fruits as much as we do. You can cut down on the amount you share by covering the tree with bird netting. This is much easier to accomplish if you choose a dwarf variety. Look for sweet cherries grafted onto rootstocks named Gisela, Krymsk or Colt. In addition to the more manageable size these rootstocks offer other advantages such as disease resistance and tolerance of poor soils. Sour cherries are naturally smaller than sweet cherries and there is a selection of varieties that are genetically dwarf.

Heritage Apple Orchard

I don’t know if you’re like me or not, but when I have a childhood memory or think back to something that really made me happy, I want to repeat it.  I guess it just comes with maturing. 

My aunt and uncle, by their dairy barn, had an old apple tree.  It was a Buncombe apple, which comes from the 19th century.  My aunt would pick those apples every fall, peel them and dry them, and throughout the entire winter she’d make the most delicious fried pies.  As a matter of fact, she still does. She took budwood off of that very Buncombe tree and grafted some apple trees for me for the heritage apple orchard at the Garden Home Retreat. 

Most often when you go to the grocery store these days you see Red Delicious, Golden Delicious, Gala, maybe Braeburns, Fujis, of course Granny Smith, and that’s about it.  However, in the 19th century and even before, there were hundreds of apple varieties to choose from, each having its own delicious, unique flavor. 

So by selecting heritage varieties for the Garden Home Retreat I can enjoy some of those flavors of the past, and at the same time, preserve the important budwood, or the genetics, of the trees for future generations.

In addition to my aunt’s Buncombes, we chose 10 varieties of heritage fruit trees that are rarely found in orchards today.

Heritage Apple Orchard at the Garden Home Retreat
Varieties Planted:
Apple ‘Ashmead’s Kernel’
Apple ‘Calville Blanc’
Apple ‘Arkansas Black’
Apple ‘Cox’s Orange Pippin’
Apple ‘Honeycrisp’
Apple ‘Hewe’s Virginia Crab’
Apple ‘Spitzenburg’
Apple ‘Magnum Bonum’
Peach ‘Indian Blood’
Apple ‘Transcendent Crab’

I’ve also mixed in a few crabapples with the fruit bearing varieties.  Crabapples do produce a tiny fruit in fall, but it’s the profusion of springtime bloom that makes them so desirable. 

I was lucky to find one of my favorite crabapple called ‘Narragansett’.  It can be a little difficult to locate a nursery that sells these.  The fruit persist well into winter for the birds to enjoy. 

Apples and crabapples benefit from a later winter pruning.  I tackle this job just as the leaf buds are beginning to swell and I don’t do much.  A quick clean up of the twigs coming off the trunk is sufficient.

I don’t take out any major limbs.  I just try to kind of clean it up, snipping off little limbs that are about the size of a pencil or under.

The other task we do in late winter/early spring is apply dormant oil.  This will suffocate any insects and keep the fungal problems at bay. 

Bundle of Apple StemsNow, I don’t let anything go to waste. All of these twigs that I cut off are bundled together for use on the grill.  love to cook chicken over fruit wood.  The flavor is excellent.

So the twigs get used in the kitchen for cooking, and, of course, the glorious apples are eaten fresh and also dried just like Aunt Genny.<

Although I don’t know if I can ever come up to making fried pies like she does.

Trees for 4 Seasons

Trees have long been regarded as one of our nation’s greatest resources. In recognition of their importance, Arbor Day was established in Nebraska in 1872 to encourage pioneers and settlers to plant trees for shade, fuel, shelter, and fruit.

These days, each state chooses its own date to observe Arbor Day, but the last Friday in April has been set aside as National Arbor Day. So why not carry on the tradition and plant a tree in your yard?

Before you select a tree, take note of the area where you want to plant it. Is the location in sun or shade? What type of soil does it have? Is the area soggy or well drained? Your tree will grow and thrive if make sure the site matches the tree’s optimum growing conditions.

Another important consideration is to compare the site to the expected size of the tree. Large trees like oaks can over power a small garden while smaller ornamental trees such as a dogwood will be lost in a great expanse of lawn. You will also need to consider proximity to buildings, sidewalks and other hardscape features. Tree canopies and root growth can be troublesome if planted in the wrong spot.

Don’t forget to look up to make sure that when the tree reaches its mature height it won’t interfere with any above ground wiring. It is also very important that you know where are the buried power, gas, and water lines are on your property. Utility companies will help you mark the lines before you dig. If you have a septic system in your yard, you’ll also want to avoid planting a tree where roots might grow into the laterals.

After selecting a site for your new tree, dig a hole. A good rule of thumb is to make it at least twice the size of the root ball, container or root spread. Mix the soil you’ve taken out of the ground with compost at a fifty-fifty ratio. Add this mixture to the bottom of the hole. This gives the roots a good home and raises the tree to the proper grade. You always want to try to match the original soil line with the existing grade of your lawn or garden. If your tree is container grown or bare root spread the roots out in the bottom of the hole.

Once you’ve positioned the tree, make sure any nylon cording is removed. Leaving it will girdle the tree and eventually kill it. Also, if your tree is balled and burlapped fold back the burlap from the top of the ball. This is biodegradable and will break down in just a few months. It’s important to note that these days some trees are balled and burlapped with a synthetic material. In such instances the covering should be removed completely.

Now, just layer in the soil mixture. As you do this occasionally add water to displace any air pockets.

Once the tree is planted feed it with an all-purpose liquid fertilizer and spread about three inches of mulch around the base.

Four Trees for Four Seasons of Color

Redbud ‘Forest Pansy’
Cercis canadensis
This is an incredible ornamental tree that is perfect for the small garden. The large heart-shaped leaves and deep burgundy color help it stand out in the garden. And of course its bloom, for many of us, is a favorite harbinger of spring, second only to the daffodil.

Fast Facts:
Zones: 5 – 9
Mature Height: 30′ wide by 30′ tall
Type: Deciduous
Growth Rate: Medium to Fast
Soil: Fertile, Loamy, Consistently Moist, and Well-Drained
Light: Full Sun to Dappled Shade
Bloom: Early Spring Before Leaves Emerge
Design Contribution: Good ornamental for a small garden. Purple blooms provide color and texture in early spring. Deep burgundy, heart shaped foliage continue color and pattern contribution through summer.

Red Maple ‘Red Sunset’
Acer rubrum
After seeing Red Sunset’ ablaze in mid November, I knew I had to have at least one. The reds in the leaves are bold and striking. These trees are the last fiery explosion of color in my garden before it nods off to sleep.

Fast Facts:
Zones: 3 – 9
Mature Height: 35′ wide by 50′ tall
Type: Deciduous
Growth Rate:Medium to Fast
Soil: Average to Acidic, Consistently Moist and Well-Drained
Light: Full Sun to Light Shade
Design Contribution:Beautiful red foliage in fall. Emerging leaf buds are also red, which provides color and texture in early spring. Dense green canopy in summer.

Smoke Tree
Cotinus coggygria
The purple leaves of the smoke tree are an excellent combination with the pink and lavender flowers in my garden. It gets its name from the fine drifts of bloom that resemble puffs smoke.

Fast Facts:
Zones: 4 – 8
Mature Height: 12′ wide by 10′ to 15′ tall
Type: Deciduous
Growth Rate: Medium
Soil: Loamy, Well-Drained
Light: Full Sun
Bloom: Summer
Design Contribution: Purple-pink "puffs" of bloom create color and texture through the summer. Dark purple foliage adds color to garden design as well. Small size makes it perfect for borders or small space gardens. Drought resistant. Deer resistant.

Blue Atlantic Cedar
Cedrus atlantica ‘Glauca’
I am quite taken with this tree. Although I have not yet found a home for the Blue Atlantic cedar in my own garden, I use it whenever possible in gardens I design for clients. They make superb focal points in the garden year round and its silver-blue color contrasted with the browns and grays of a winter garden is exceptional.

Fast Facts:
Zones: 3 – 9
Mature Height: 40′ wide by 50′ tall
Type: Evergreen
Growth Rate: Slow
Soil: Average, Well-Drained
Light: Full Sun
Design Contribution: Conical shape and evergreen foliage makes this a good focal point tree. Silver-blue color provides winter interest. Medium to Fast
Soil: Average to Acidic, Consistently Moist and Well-Drained
Light: Full Sun to Light Shade
Design Contribution: Conical shape and evergreen foliage makes this a good focal point tree. Silver-blue color provides winter interest.

Planting Trees And Shrubs

What does he plant who plants a tree?
He plants cool shade and tender rain,
And seed and bud of days to be,
And years that fade and flush again;
He plants the forest’s heritage;
The harvest of a coming age;
The joy that unborn eyes shall see –
These things he plants who plants a tree.
From “The Heart of the Tree” by
Henry Cuyler Bunner (1855 – 1896)

Although the summer blooms have faded, you may want to keep your garden tools out for just a bit longer. Autumn is the perfect time to make structural changes to your garden by relocating or adding trees and shrubs. There are several reasons for this.

Fall is an ideal season to evaluate your garden. Summer has just passed so you have a good idea of what has done well and what you would like to change.

You are also more likely to have the time to take on large projects. During the spring and summer the majority of one’s attention goes toward perennials, annuals, vegetables and general maintenance of the garden.

TreeYou can get some real bargains on plant material in the fall. Rather than over winter large plantings, nurseries often drastically reduce prices on trees and shrubs.

And last but not least, the cooler temperatures and plentiful rain typical of autumn create the best conditions for developing strong root systems. This allows your newly planted trees and shrubs to take off in the spring.

Tree Planting Tips

Northern gardeners that experience long dormant seasons should plant balled and burlapped material or transplant trees and shrubs in late summer or early fall. This allows roots cut during the process to regenerate before a hard freeze. However, plants purchased in containers have a full root system, so they can be planted later in the fall.

Some trees don’t transplant well in the fall. Conifers, dogwoods, liquidambars, oaks, crabapples, and birches should be moved in the spring.

Before doing any major digging always check with the utility company for the location of any underground cables and gas lines. Utility companies will come out and mark the lines free of charge.

After selecting a site for your new tree or shrub, dig a hole at least twice the size of the root ball, container or root spread.

Mix the soil 50/50 with compost. Add this mixture to the bottom of the hole. This gives the roots a good home and raises the tree to the proper grade. Try to match the original soil line with the existing grade of your lawn or garden. If your tree or shrub is container grown or bare root, spread the roots out in the bottom of the hole.

You want to encourage all of the roots to spread out and take hold in their new home. If the plant’s roots are tightly bound, gently tear them loose before planting them in their confined form.

If your plant is balled and wrapped in cloth burlap, fold back the burlap from the top of the ball. This is biodegradable and will break down in just a few months. These days, trees and shrubs are more often balled and wrapped with a synthetic material. This covering will not biodegrade and should be removed completely.

Once you’ve positioned the plant, make sure any nylon cording around the trunk or limbs is removed. Leaving it will girdle the tree or shrub and as the plant grows, it will die.

Once you get the tree or shrub in the ground, add a root stimulator that contains vitamin B1 to buckets of water. A root stimulator helps to accelerate the development of feeder roots. Many root stimulators contain a mild fertilizer that is fine for the fall. Wait and do the heavy feeding in the spring.

Now, just layer in the soil mixture, occasionally adding water mixed with the root stimulator to displace any air pockets.

Once planted, tuck your plants in with 3 to 4 inches of mulch to keep the roots consistently moist and also help them withstand extreme changes in temperature.

Learn more about planting trees by watching the video below!

Five Trees for a Small Space

I live in zone 7A and would like some advice for selecting a shade tree. The house faces west so we would like to plant a tree to help block the hot sun. Our yard is small, so we don’t want something that will grow extremely large. Do you have any suggestions?

With a little planning you can successfully grow a shade providing tree in just about any sized yard. It’s all about selecting the right tree for your situation. To get the right fit there are some questions to consider.

  1. How much space do you have? Research the mature size of the tree. Small, ornamental trees need to be planted at least 10 feet from your house; medium trees 15 – 20 feet and large trees require 20 or more feet. Don’t forget about the root system, which can spread to 3 times the diameter of the tree’s canopy.
  2. What are your growing conditions like? Is the location in sun or shade? What type of soil do you have? Is the area soggy or well drained? Your tree will grow and thrive if make sure the site matches the tree’s optimum growing conditions.
  3. Do you like to rake leaves? Shade trees are typically deciduous, which means someone is going to need to rake the leaves when they drop in fall. If this is an issue, consider a screen of large growing evergreens instead. Osmanthus, arborvitae, hollies, Leyland cypress and photinias are a few to consider.
  4. Do you have utility lines across your yard? If the answer is yes, make sure to site the tree where it won’t grow up into the utility lines.
  5. How large is your house? Make sure the tree you select will be in scale with your house. A small, ornamental tree will be dwarfed by a two story house.

Once you have answered these basic questions you can start the fun of looking at all the trees that are just right for your garden. Here are a few to get you started.

Medium Trees
Black Gum (Nyssa sylvatica) – Grows to 40 – 60 feet, pest free, slow growing, brilliant fall foliage, grows well in poorly drained soil, not so happy in hot, dry locations, hardy in zones 5 – 9.

American Linden (Tilia americana) – Grows to 30 – 60 feet, pest and disease free, holds up well in storms, rapid grower, fragrant flowers that attract bees in spring, grows well in hot, dry locations, needs good drainage, hardy in zones 3 – 8.

Small Trees

Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) – Depending on the cultivar grows from 18-inches – 40 feet, pest free, susceptible to powdery mildew, rapid grower, beautiful late summer flowers, outstanding fall foliage, grows best in full sun, hardy in zones 7 – 9.

Chinese Dogwood (Cornus kousa chinensis) – Grows to 16 – 18 feet, pest and disease free, slow to moderate grower, blooms later than Cornus florida, large red fall fruit, prefers dappled to partial shade, hardy in zones 5 – 8.

Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum) – Grows to 20 feet with a 20 foot spread, moderate grower, many cultivar choices for foliage color and texture, prefers partial shade to light shade, hardy in zones 5 – 8.

Purple Leaf Plum (Prunus cerasifera) – Grows to 20 – 25 feet, moderate grower, spring blooms and burgundy foliage, small fruits in late summer, best color when planted in full sun, hardy in zones 4 – 9.

Trident Maple (Acer buergeranum) – Grows to 30 feet, pest and disease free, rapid grower, good fall foliage, interesting bark, grows well in hot, dry locations, needs good drainage, hardy in zones 5 – 9.

Learn more about planting trees by watching the video below!